加伯瑞•斯迪比因电影《真爱》而获奥斯卡提名
随着最近美国电影艺术与科学学院奖(Academy Award)提名名单的揭晓，设计师们已经开始为在颁奖当晚打理明星们的服装展开了角逐。不过设计师们看重的倒不是谁是奥斯卡(Oscar)大赢家，他们 考虑的是另外一个问题：在促使观众买下那些他们在红地毯上看到的服装上面，哪个明星最有说服力？
With the Academy Award nominations out this week, fashion designers are already jockeying to dress the stars for their big night. But rather than picking the Oscar winners, designers are asking another question: Who will be the most effective at getting viewers to buy the clothes they see on the red carpet?
在今年的提名者中，“最佳推销员”的奖项可能要属于一个在时尚界少有人议论的奥斯卡候选人：桑德拉•布洛克(Sandra Bullock)。在StyleSpot.com网站上，布洛克在金球奖(Golden Globes)颁奖典礼上的单肩薇薇恩•韦斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)礼服在今年所有的红毯亮相中位居前列，她也成为最能鼓励观众从红毯照片点击链接至服装卖场的人。总部位于洛杉矶的 StyleSpot.com网站将红毯照片和销售这些礼服的商家链接在一起。
Among this year's nominees, the 'best seller' award is likely to go to a nominee whom few in the fashion world are discussing: Sandra Bullock. At StyleSpot.com, a Los Angeles-based Web site that links red-carpet photos to stores that sell the looks, Ms. Bullock's one-shouldered Vivienne Westwood dress at the Golden Globes ranked among the top of all red-carpet appearances this year in inspiring viewers to 'click through' to retail sites.
一个经验是：推动服装销售的并非是单纯的时髦漂亮。“在绝大多数情况下，带动销量的明星不一定是那些获得了奥斯卡提名的演员，” StyleSpot.com编辑部主任莉莉•霍兰德(Lily Hollander)表示。45岁的布洛克在时尚榜单上的位置并不靠前，不过她的邻家女形像意味着成百上千万的女性对她有认同感。
One lesson: It isn't pure chic that moves clothes. 'For the most part, celebrities that drive sales aren't necessarily the ones that get nominated' for awards, says Lily Hollander, editorial director of StyleSpot.com. The 45-year-old Ms. Bullock is not high on chic lists, but her down-to-earth image mean millions of women relate to her.
相比之下，因《成长教育》(An Education)获得最佳女演员提名的凯瑞•穆里根(Carey Mulligan)则得到了数十名服装设计师的青睐，他们争相租借给她在奥斯卡上穿着的首饰和礼服。这位留着利落短发的年轻女演员在穿着方面是个众所周知 的高手。“凯瑞•穆里根将成为Vogue.com网站上最受人关注的人物，”Vogue欧洲版编辑哈米什•鲍尔斯(Hamish Bowles)说，她回想起穆里根最近穿着的一件亮闪闪的普拉达(Prada)礼服。
By contrast, with her Best Actress Oscar nomination for 'An Education' this week, Carey Mulligan has dozens of fashion designers vying to lend her baubles and gowns for the Oscars. The young actress with the pixie haircut is known as a sophisticated dresser. 'Carey Mulligan will be the most watched on Vogue.com,' says Hamish Bowles, Vogue's European editor at large, recalling a sparkling Prada dress the actress wore recently.
过尽管穆里根在时尚方面有可信度，但她或许并不是植入式广告最明智的人选。在StyleSpot.com网站上，穆里根并不属于能够推动观众购 买服装的明星之列。记者未能联系到穆里根置评。
But despite Ms. Mulligan's fashion cred, she may not be the savviest choice for product placement. At StyleSpot.com, Ms. Mulligan is not one of the stars who moves the most viewers to buy clothes. Ms. Mulligan wasn't available to comment.
有关明星植入式广告的效用并不存在什么科学根据，不过在今年的提名者中，丰满的加伯瑞•斯迪比(Gabourey Sidibe)和典雅的梅丽尔•斯特里普(Meryl Streep)或许也能推动奥斯卡销售。《真爱》(Precious)的主演斯迪比是“红毯上的另类范例，不过她能够驾驭那些非常强烈的色彩，”鲍尔斯 说。另外，大尺寸服装也是时尚界成长最快的市场之一。
Celebrity placement is more voodoo than science, but among this year's nominees, other Oscar sales influencers may include plus-sized Gabourey Sidibe and the classic Meryl Streep. Ms. Sidibe, the star of 'Precious,' is 'an alternate paradigm for the red carpet, but she can carry these very strong colors,' says Mr. Bowles. What's more, the plus-sized market is one of fashion's fastest growing.
而且，斯特里普成熟而端庄的时尚风格或许对40岁以上的女性有吸引力，这些女性比其他人口统计群体在服装上面的花费都要多。
And Ms. Streep's maturity and demure style choices may appeal to women over 40, who spend more on fashion than other demographic groups.
在StyleSpot.com网站上最能带动销售的未获本届奥斯卡提名的女演员中，凯特•哈德森(Kate Hudson)和德鲁•巴里莫尔(Drew Barrymore)正处在有利位置上──她们时尚、相对年轻，足以带动网购人群，不过她们也过了吸引青少年或者大学生注意力的年龄，而这些人并没有太多 钱可花在衣服上面。
Among top StyleSpot.com sellers who aren't nominated, Kate Hudson and Drew Barrymore are in a sweet spot -- fashionable, and young enough to inspire Internet shoppers, yet not so young that they're attracting teens or college-aged women, who don't have a lot of money for clothes.
去年上线的StyleSpot将明星的红毯照片和从内曼•马库斯(Neiman Marcus)、Barneys到亚马逊(Amazon.com)这样的网上零售商店链接在一起。当消费者点击照片并购买相关商品的时 候，StyleSpot就能从销售额中得到一部分的提成。许多网上零售商都将名人照片和商品摆在一起，不过对于StyleSpot来说，红毯照片是他们的 杀手口。该网站的数据库包括了红毯活动上的图片，并按照明星、活动和设计师品牌来分门别类。
StyleSpot, which launched last year, links celebrity red-carpet photos to online retail stores from Neiman Marcus and Barneys to Amazon.com. StyleSpot earns revenue as a percentage of sales when consumers click on a photo and purchase the related item. Many online retailers include celebrity photos in their offerings, but for StyleSpot, red-carpet photos are the core. Its database compiles images from red-carpet events and organizes them by star, event, and designer brand.
红地毯已经成为时尚界最主要的一条营销渠道。奥斯卡提名者的照片在3月7日的颁奖晚会后将被张贴到从美国爱达荷州的博伊西到印度孟买的各个地 方，还会出现在数不清的博客上面。奥斯卡还将拥有超过3,500万的电视观众。这是个让人无法抗拒的广告平台。在洛杉矶，设计师们聘用了专门针对贵宾的人 员，他们的工作就是让这些设计师的服装出现在明星们的身上。
Red carpets have become a primary marketing channel for fashion. The Academy Award nominees' photos will be plastered from Boise to Bombay after the March 7 awards show, which will be watched by something north of 35 million television viewers -- and seen on a gazillion blogs. It's an irresistible advertising medium. In Los Angeles, designers employ VIP handlers, who work to get the designers' clothes on celebrities who might be photographed in them.
时尚产业这么做的原因是这招确实奏效。西耶娜•米勒(Sienna Miller)在时装纪录片《九月刊》(The September Issue)的首映礼穿上了Thakoon的修身小礼服裙之后，每家进了这件衣服的商店都卖断了货，设计师塔库恩•帕尼克歌尔(Thakoon Panichgul)的发言人表示。
The fashion industry does this because it works. After Sienna Miller wore Thakoon's spring bustier jumper to the premiere of the fashion documentary 'The September Issue,' every store that bought the piece sold out, says a spokeswoman for designer Thakoon Panichgul.
在人民选择奖颁奖仪式上亮相的杰西卡•阿尔芭
然而对于设计师来说，成功还是明星影响力和时机之间的一种微妙平衡。杰西卡•阿尔芭(Jessica Alba)在上个月的人民选择奖(People's Choice)颁奖礼上露面后，她穿着的巴宝莉(Burberry)子品牌Burberry Prorsum的打结厚底凉鞋为StyleSpot.com网站带来了本季所有红毯亮相中指向零售店的最多的点击量。
Yet success, for a designer, is a delicate balance of star power and timing. After Jessica Alba presented an award at the People's Choice awards last month, her Burberry Prorsum knotted platform sandals generated the most click-throughs to retail sites of any red-carpet appearance this season on StyleSpot.com.
不过不幸的是，巴宝莉这款春季款凉鞋直到下月才会到店。因此买家们不得不退而求其次，在网站上购买Robert Clergerie和Callisto品牌的相似的凉鞋款式。
Unfortunately for Burberry, those spring-season shoes won't be available in stores for another month. So shoppers had to settle for similar looks offered on the site by Robert Clergerie and Callisto.
当然，这还会带来其他的好处。知名的时尚界宣传人士卡拉•奥托(Karla Otto)表示，一线女演员的任何亮相“都能带动从衣服到配饰的销售，如果消费者买不起这些东西，他们可能会购买明星使用的香水或是美容用品。”奥托最近 在洛杉矶开设了一家专为贵宾服务的办公室。代表奥托客户，也就是那些设计师的是公关人员，他们的工作就是让明星们穿上设计师的服装。
Of course, there are ancillary benefits. High-profile fashion publicist Karla Otto, who recently opened a Los Angeles VIP office, says any appearance by an A-List actress 'sells product from clothing to accessories and, if the consumer can't afford the attire, they might buy the fragrance or the beauty products.' It's public-relations people who represent Otto's clients, who are designers, with the purpose of getting celebs to wear the clothes.
以防明星的衣着不能带来足够的曝光率，品牌的宣传人员会在明星踏上红地毯的那一刻发布新闻稿。在近期的格莱美(Grammy Awards)颁奖礼上，Emilio Pucci宣布歌手/演员菲姬(Fergie)穿着该品牌的蓝色无肩带礼服露面，而Judith Leiber也宣布菲姬拿着的是Leiber手袋。上个月，每次菲姬在戛纳穿上Missoni，这个品牌都会发布新闻稿。“我希望其他人能够受到她那种非 常棒的个人风格的影响，”设计师安吉拉•米索尼(Angela Missoni)在电子邮件中表示。
Just in case a star's clothes don't draw enough coverage, brands' publicists fire off press releases the minute their star steps outside. During last Sunday's Grammy Awards, Emilio Pucci announced that singer/actress Fergie appeared in its blue strapless dress, while Judith Leiber announced she carried a Leiber clutch. Each time Fergie wore Missoni in Cannes last week, the brand shot out a release. 'I hope that others will be influenced by her great personal style,' said designer Angela Missoni in an email.
没有什么是不值一提的。造型师马克•汤森德(Mark Townsend)宣布，他在金球奖上为女演员詹纽瑞•琼斯(January Joness)做了一个法式发髻，先吹干她的头发，“用滚梳”梳头发，再“用大约10支发夹”固定。他还公布了自己的美发产品和价 格：Moroccanoil护理，3.4液体盎司的价格是39美元。
Nothing is too minor for mention. Stylist Mark Townsend announced that he set actress January Joness hair in a French twist for the Golden Globes, blow drying her hair 'with a round brush' and securing 'it with about 10 bobby pins.' He also named hair products and prices: Moroccanoil Treatment, $39 for 3.4 fl. oz.
纽约旧货店Rare的老板朱莉安娜•卡伊罗内(Juliana Cairone)说，安吉利娜•朱莉(Angelina Jolie)、安妮•海瑟薇(Anne Hathaway)和凯拉•塞吉维克(Kyra Sedgwick)穿着的独一无二的古董礼服让完全不相干的衣服也销售一空。“人们并不是在寻找同样的东西，他们只是想从我们这里买点儿什么。”
Dressing Angelina Jolie, Anne Hathaway and Kyra Sedgwick in one-of-a-kind vintage gowns has rubbed off in sales of totally unrelated clothes, says Juliana Cairone, owner of the New York vintage boutique Rare. 'They are not looking for the same item,' she says, 'they just want something from us.'
男士品牌已经嫉妒地注意到了这些好处，他们已经开始对男艺人们展开了公关。在近期的格莱美奖上，莱昂国王(Kings of Leon)乐队的成员身穿巴宝莉和John Varvatos亮相。
Having jealously noted these benefits, menswear labels are starting to go after male artists. At last week's Grammy's, members of Kings of Leon appeared in Burberry and John Varvatos.
那么谁是奥斯卡男演员中最有潜力的服装推销员──像桑德拉•布洛克那样，兼具迷人外表和邻家气质？不，不是《拆弹部队》(The Hurt Locker)中的性感男星杰瑞米•雷纳(Jeremy Renner)。实际上，时尚界把宝押在了最佳男配角候选人伍迪•哈里森(Woody Harrelson)身上。
So who's the Oscars' Actor Most Likely to Sell Fashion -- the guy with Ms. Bullock's combination of attractive looks and guy-next-door accessibility? No, not Jeremy Renner, the sexy star of 'The Hurt Locker.' The street money's on Best Supporting Actor nominee Woody Harrelson.